IF YOU HAVE followed this series from the beginning, you know that I have already discussed a typical three-channel radio-control system (the Hitec Neon), and last month I introduced you to the components of an electric power system that is capable of flying a Radio Control (RC) model aircraft. At this point we have the RC and power systems, and we need a model to complete the package.

There are so many aircraft choices today for the beginning RC modeler. You can purchase a model that is essentially ready to fly, with the motor and radio system installed at the factory. With a few minutes of your time you can be at the flying field for that first flight lesson.

There are not that many ready-built models available yet; some are not the best choice for a beginner, and they can be quite expensive. A better choice is a model that comes essentially prebuilt, but it does require final assembly and you must install the radio and power systems. I favor this approach for a starter, and that will be the subject of this article.

However, there are two other categories of model aircraft with which you will eventually become familiar. One involves building from a manufactured kit. You assemble all of the precut pieces, cover the airplane as applicable, and install all of the equipment.

The other category is what we call "scratch building." You purchase plans offered as part of a published model design in one of the hobby publications or you can "roll your own" and make your own designs as you gain experience. When scratch building you must buy the wood and materials, cut out all of the parts, assemble them, cover the aircraft, and install the equipment.

A beginner can have the skills necessary to do this if given the proper detailed instructions. I have an extremely simple design I call the "Scratch-One" which will be featured two installments from now. That article will enable you to use this same RC and power system in your first scratch-built model.

What is an ARF? ARF stands for Almost Ready to Fly. Most ARF models come with the structure entirely framed and covered (where applicable). To keep the shipping box to a reasonable size, most ARFs are shipped disassembled.

The wings will usually be two or more panels that must be joined. The tail surfaces (stabilizer and vertical fin) must be installed at the rear end of the fuselage. Sometimes you are required to install the elevator and rudder with supplied hinges. In each case you will have to install the power and RC systems.

On average, an ARF will require approximately a week of casual work to get from the shipping box to the flying field. If built from a manufactured kit, that same model might take upward of a month to complete.

The other good news is the cost. ARFs are made in such large quantities that it is often possible to purchase them for less than $100 apiece. In many cases it might cost as much to build from a kit or plans since individual materials can be quite expensive. With an ARF you have the chance to get out to the flying field quickly and experience the thrill of radio-controlled flight.  

Why Electric Power? Last month I presented an electric power system for a small model that is supplied as "plug and play"; that means it comes with all of the electrical connectors installed. All you do is plug everything together and you are ready for flying.

I also pointed out the many advantages of electric power for models. You will spend far less time turning on an electric motor than you will trying to fuel up and start a glow-plug engine, then learning how to tune/adjust the engine for flight. You are also far less likely to have a motor stop running in flight. Electric power is perfect for a rank beginner.

Sizing the Model: The model portrayed in this article is one of many ARF trainers available on the hobby market. I'll provide many sources for these models at the end of this article.

Electric-powered models come as small as 1-ounce indoor types up through 5- to 10-ounce parking-lot or schoolyard flyers, then all the way up to 1/4-scale models that can weigh upward of 25-30 pounds.  

The selection process could be overwhelming for a beginner. To narrow the field this first time around I've centered on a Speed 400-size electric motor which turns a propeller directly (does not use a gear drive). This motor is roughly equivalent to a 1/2A size (.049-cubic-inch displacement) glow-fueled engine. It is capable of flying models of roughly 12-20 ounces all-up weight.

The model will be roughly 200-300 square inches with a wingspan of 30-50 inches. These aircraft are generally flown with basic rudder and elevator control along with motor (engine) throttle. Later you will learn how to transition into aileron control, which makes flying similar to that of full-scale aircraft.

For now the choices have been made for you to simplify the learning process. With experience you will learn to make your own model choices. There are even computer programs that can help you with this process, sizing models to motor, gear ratio, propeller size, and battery (number of cells and capacity).  

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